These fertilizer recipes are guidelines and adaptable. They were developed for use in the high rainfall area of the Pacific Northwest which has a tendency to be deficient in minerals and acidic. When blending HMOF all ingredients are measured by volume, using a tin can or other scoop. Many of these materials are quite dusty. I recommend applying them with a sports field ‘line marker’ to get the most material on the ground while creating the least windblown dust. Do not measure by weight. Into a large plastic bucket pour the following:
VEGETABLE MIX
• 4 measures of linseed/alfalfa meal;
• ½ measure of ordinary agricultural lime;
• ½ measure of dolomite lime;
• 1 measure of fish bone meal
• ½ measure crustacean or crab meal
• ½ measure green sand
• ¼ measure azomite
• ¼ measure glacial dust
• ½ to 1 measure of Thorvin kelp meal.
• 1/8 measure SEA-90
• 1/8 measure Epson salt
Mix the ingredients thoroughly.
GREENS MIX
• 2-3 measures of fish meal;
• ½ measure of ordinary agricultural lime;
• ½ measure of dolomite lime;
• 1 measure of fish bone meal
• ½ measure crustacean or crab meal
• ½ measure green sand
• ¼ measure azomite
• ¼ measure glacial dust
• ½ to 1 measure of Thorvin kelp meal.
• 1/8 measure SEA-90
• 1/8 measure Epson salt
Mix the ingredients thoroughly.
Two methods for applying.
Method 1--Uniformly spread 4–6 quarts of HMOF per 100 sq. feet of intensely planted growing bed or, if growing in long rows, 4–6 quarts of HMOF per 50 row feet, covering a band up to 18” wide depending on the crop and centered on where the water will be applied if using drip irrigation, not necessarily in the center of the planting. Dig in the fertilizer in advance of planting to let soil bacteria and fungi start working on the material before plants need the nutrition. Once the seedlings are up, if your crop does not grow fast enough to suit you, side-dress it with up to another 4–6 quarts per 100 sq. ft. of bed or 50 feet of row. If the extra HMOF gives you a good result you shouldn’t need any more through the entire crop cycle. If the extra HMOF had no result, you did not need it, and do not add any more because you might over fertilize and harm your plants.
Method 2—Rough up the surface of the soil or use something like a wheel hoe to make a shallow trench. Next, use a sports line marker and band the fertilizer 2-4” wide in the trench. You can plant in the trench and cover as you go or plant next to the trench and cover as you go. It does help to get the fertilizer activated in advance as it won’t become available to the plants until it starts getting worked on by the soil food web.
This fertilizer may be too rich in magnesium for some soils. As a first year application you should be all right with this formula but like any good thing it is easy to overdo it. Subsequent applications should be accompanied by a soil test to make sure you aren’t adding more than you need to accomplish the goal of growing highly nutritious vegetables and fruits. The primary use of this type of fertilizer is to feed the soil and encourage it to become highly biological. The soil food web then feeds your plants and the plants supply energy back to the soil food web. Consider this when applying any kind of fertilizer and amendments to soils as less is often more.
ABOUT SOIL TESTS
Soil tests may indicate that you need 5 tons of lime per acre to get to the desired range of pH. Disregard that. Conventional wisdom is that you cannot possibly grow plants, let alone highly nutritious food, without soil being very close to a neutral pH. This was proven to be false by soil scientists working for the USDA extension office in the 1930s when they fed plants a highly acidic form of calcium that brought the soil down to pH 3.5. As long as minerals like calcium are present in solution they are available to the plants. If in doubt some minerals can be applied as a foliar spray.
• If soil tests show that you have a very low pH and that you are low in calcium and magnesium then use the dolomite. Magnesium raises pH six times faster than calcium.
• Dolomite, which contains calcium and magnesium, and lime may be eliminated if soils are near a desirable pH because the bone and crab meal will provide enough calcium to be adequate for feeding.
• Epsom salt, which consists of magnesium and sulfur, has a neutral pH. Consider eliminating this if your soil has adequate magnesium. Sulfur is important to watch though, and even small amounts can have a great effect on yields if it isn’t available in meaningful quantities. Some essential amino acids are sulfur based so don’t neglect sulfur.
• If you have pelletized types of agricultural lime and dolomite available such as “Calpril” or “Dolopril” you might want to consider using that as your “lime” source as it is slower releasing and may provide more consistent nutrition in wet conditions and they are less likely to burn plants.
VEGETABLE MIX
• 4 measures of linseed/alfalfa meal;
• ½ measure of ordinary agricultural lime;
• ½ measure of dolomite lime;
• 1 measure of fish bone meal
• ½ measure crustacean or crab meal
• ½ measure green sand
• ¼ measure azomite
• ¼ measure glacial dust
• ½ to 1 measure of Thorvin kelp meal.
• 1/8 measure SEA-90
• 1/8 measure Epson salt
Mix the ingredients thoroughly.
GREENS MIX
• 2-3 measures of fish meal;
• ½ measure of ordinary agricultural lime;
• ½ measure of dolomite lime;
• 1 measure of fish bone meal
• ½ measure crustacean or crab meal
• ½ measure green sand
• ¼ measure azomite
• ¼ measure glacial dust
• ½ to 1 measure of Thorvin kelp meal.
• 1/8 measure SEA-90
• 1/8 measure Epson salt
Mix the ingredients thoroughly.
Two methods for applying.
Method 1--Uniformly spread 4–6 quarts of HMOF per 100 sq. feet of intensely planted growing bed or, if growing in long rows, 4–6 quarts of HMOF per 50 row feet, covering a band up to 18” wide depending on the crop and centered on where the water will be applied if using drip irrigation, not necessarily in the center of the planting. Dig in the fertilizer in advance of planting to let soil bacteria and fungi start working on the material before plants need the nutrition. Once the seedlings are up, if your crop does not grow fast enough to suit you, side-dress it with up to another 4–6 quarts per 100 sq. ft. of bed or 50 feet of row. If the extra HMOF gives you a good result you shouldn’t need any more through the entire crop cycle. If the extra HMOF had no result, you did not need it, and do not add any more because you might over fertilize and harm your plants.
Method 2—Rough up the surface of the soil or use something like a wheel hoe to make a shallow trench. Next, use a sports line marker and band the fertilizer 2-4” wide in the trench. You can plant in the trench and cover as you go or plant next to the trench and cover as you go. It does help to get the fertilizer activated in advance as it won’t become available to the plants until it starts getting worked on by the soil food web.
This fertilizer may be too rich in magnesium for some soils. As a first year application you should be all right with this formula but like any good thing it is easy to overdo it. Subsequent applications should be accompanied by a soil test to make sure you aren’t adding more than you need to accomplish the goal of growing highly nutritious vegetables and fruits. The primary use of this type of fertilizer is to feed the soil and encourage it to become highly biological. The soil food web then feeds your plants and the plants supply energy back to the soil food web. Consider this when applying any kind of fertilizer and amendments to soils as less is often more.
ABOUT SOIL TESTS
Soil tests may indicate that you need 5 tons of lime per acre to get to the desired range of pH. Disregard that. Conventional wisdom is that you cannot possibly grow plants, let alone highly nutritious food, without soil being very close to a neutral pH. This was proven to be false by soil scientists working for the USDA extension office in the 1930s when they fed plants a highly acidic form of calcium that brought the soil down to pH 3.5. As long as minerals like calcium are present in solution they are available to the plants. If in doubt some minerals can be applied as a foliar spray.
• If soil tests show that you have a very low pH and that you are low in calcium and magnesium then use the dolomite. Magnesium raises pH six times faster than calcium.
• Dolomite, which contains calcium and magnesium, and lime may be eliminated if soils are near a desirable pH because the bone and crab meal will provide enough calcium to be adequate for feeding.
• Epsom salt, which consists of magnesium and sulfur, has a neutral pH. Consider eliminating this if your soil has adequate magnesium. Sulfur is important to watch though, and even small amounts can have a great effect on yields if it isn’t available in meaningful quantities. Some essential amino acids are sulfur based so don’t neglect sulfur.
• If you have pelletized types of agricultural lime and dolomite available such as “Calpril” or “Dolopril” you might want to consider using that as your “lime” source as it is slower releasing and may provide more consistent nutrition in wet conditions and they are less likely to burn plants.
Posts
